秋
Year-round access
AutumnOct–Nov
Now on this drive · crab opens 6 November
Echizen crab opens on 6 November and the Mikuni Crab Festival is on 14 and 15 November 2026. Ōno castle is open to the end of November, until 16:00.
春 夏 秋 冬
Open all year · crab from 6 November to 20 March
By car · 3 days from Fukui Station

Echizen Coast & Ōno越前海岸・大野

Three days from Fukui for the crab: Maruoka Castle, sweet shrimp in Mikuni, Tōjinbō at sunset, Echizen crab at an inn on the coast, then Eiheiji's sesame tofu, Ōno's soba and a sauce katsudon to finish.

about 190 km · 2h 45m at the wheelcoast roads and a toll-free expresswayone-way hire to Tsuruga possible
about 190 km round trip10 min read
Days
3 (2 nights)
Driving
about 2h 45m
Distance
about 190 km
Start
Fukui Station
End
Fukui, or Tsuruga one-way
Best
6 November to 20 March, crab season
  1. J
  2. F
  3. M
  4. A
  5. M
  6. J
  7. J
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  9. S
  10. O
  11. N
  12. D
Find a hire car ↗

Distances and times are for the car alone, no traffic. The coast road is slower than the figures.

In brief

Collect the car at Fukui Station, see Maruoka Castle, eat sweet shrimp in Mikuni and watch the sun go down at Tōjinbō. Day 2 follows Route 305 down the Echizen coast to an inn with a crab plan. Day 3 is Eiheiji, sesame tofu and Ōno, then Fukui. About 190 km and 2h 45m of driving, on coast roads and the toll-free Chūbu-Jūkan Expressway.

Why drive it, and why for the crab

Fukui is on the Shinkansen, but the coast is not. There is no direct bus from Fukui Station to Tōjinbō, and the Echizen coast south of Mikuni is one road with an hourly bus at best. The two crab inns on the coast are about 40 minutes by car from Takefu IC and an hour by bus from Takefu. A car lets you arrive at a coast inn at 16:00 for a crab dinner and walk to the sea in the morning.

The male Echizen-gani, with its yellow tag, is fished from 6 November to 20 March, and the female seiko-gani only until 31 December. Each day here leads with the food and ends with the night's stay: sweet shrimp in Mikuni, crab on the coast, goma-dōfu at Eiheiji, soba in Ōno and a sauce katsudon at the station. Season and roads lists the closures. A crab guide and a Fukui food guide go deeper.

Day 1 · about 37 km · 40 min at the wheel

Fukui to Maruoka, Mikuni and Tōjinbō

A castle, a sweet-shrimp lunch, the cliffs at sunset and a night on the coast. Collect the car by 9:00.

01

Maruoka Castle丸岡城

Sakai · about 13 km, 12 min from Fukui Station · free parking

Built in 1576 by Shibata Katsutoyo and a National Important Cultural Property: the keep, with its stone-tile roof, was rebuilt in 1955 after the 1948 Fukui earthquake. Go before the sweet-shrimp lunch: the castle opens at 8:30 and takes ¥450 (last entry 16:30).

The keep is under a large repair from March 2026 to about November 2027, so you may see it behind scaffolding. It can only be entered on set dates: 1 to 8 November and 12 to 31 December 2026 (partial opening); on other days walk the grounds and see it from outside. Parking is free from 6:30 to 20:00, with 40 places at the castle and 140 in the Hyakuhitsu Keishō-kan lot to the north.

Admission
¥450
Hours
8:30–17:00
Parking
Free

16 km · 18 min Local roads north to Mikuni, 三国

02

Sweet-shrimp lunch in Mikuni三国のあまえび・魚志楼

Lunch · Demura, Mikuni · 料理茶屋 魚志楼 (Uoshirō) 11:30–14:00

Mikuni is the old Kitamae-bune port at the mouth of the Kuzuryū River, and its harbour lands sweet shrimp (amaebi) all year. Uoshirō is a Meiji-era geisha house, a registered cultural property, now a restaurant: lunch bowls and sets run ¥880–¥2,420, including amaebi tempura and marinated-amaebi rice bowls. It is closed on Tuesdays and the 2nd and 4th Wednesdays; phone 0776-82-0141 to check on the day.

After lunch walk the old town for an hour: latticed merchant houses and the Former Morita Bank, free to enter. The Mikuni-minato guide has the route.

Lunch
¥880–¥2,420
Closed
Tue, 2nd/4th Wed
Walk
~1 hr

4 km · 5 min Local road to Tōjinbō, 東尋坊

03

Tōjinbō cliffs東尋坊

Sakai · cliffs free, open at all hours · boat ¥2,000

About 1 km of columnar andesite cliffs rising to about 25 m, a national Natural Monument since 1935. Winter is the season for it: December to February brings the biggest waves, and the cliffs face west, so the sun goes down into the Sea of Japan behind the columns. There are no railings on most of the edge and the rock is slippery when wet. Stay well back in wind.

The 30-minute boat to Oshima island costs ¥2,000 and runs 9:00 to 15:30 from 1 November to 31 March. It is closed on Wednesdays, does not sail from 29 December to 31 January, and is cancelled in high waves. Parking: the municipal car park closed in July 2023 for redevelopment, so use the private shop car parks along the approach street (usually free if you buy something; fees vary). The Tōjinbō guide covers the tower, Oshima and the shopping street.

Cliffs
Free
Boat
¥2,000
Boat closed
Wed, 29 Dec–31 Jan

5 km · 5 min Back through Mikuni to tonight's inn

Tonight · Mikuni, with a crab plan from 6 November
Onsen · crab plans

Kyukamura Echizen-Mikuni

休暇村越前三国 · coast north of Tōjinbō

Public resort hotel on a grassy headland with sea views from every room and a garden open-air bath, 5 minutes by car from Tōjinbō. Ask for the winter crab plan when you book.

mid-range
Check rates ↗
Machiya auberge

Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato

オーベルジュほまち 三國湊 · old town

Sixteen suites in nine restored Edo and Meiji townhouses on the old port's streets, with French cooking built on Fukui produce. Free shuttle from Awara-Onsen Station.

from ¥38,000 pp with 2 mealsOur notes →
Check rates ↗

Or keep dinner simple: Tsumesho Mikuni is a whole restored machiya (¥11,300–¥14,300 pp) where you eat in town. Crab arrives on 6 November, and the Mikuni Crab Festival on 14 and 15 November 2026 (6:00–15:00, Mikuni Sunset Beach car park) sells just-landed Echizen crab from a local fishmonger and 2,500 bowls of whole female-crab miso soup. Park at the Sunset Beach lot, which will be busy, or take the Echizen Railway to Mikuni-minato.

Day 2 · about 48 km · 42 min at the wheel

The Echizen coast, Route 305

A short drive and a long dinner. Daffodils, a cape, the crab museum and a crab inn.

01

Echizen daffodils越前水仙の里公園

Fukui city · Route 305 · about 30 km, 25 min from Mikuni on the fastest roads (the coast road is slower)

The wild Echizen daffodil (越前水仙) grows on these coastal slopes, and outdoors it normally flowers from early December to early February, depending on the year. Echizen Suisen no Sato Park grows them and shows them indoors all year, so it is worth the stop even before the slopes flower. The park is open 9:00 to 17:00, closed Mondays and from 28 December to 4 January, and charges ¥310; there are 80 parking places.

A coast daffodil festival ran from 17 January to 1 February in 2026. The 2027 dates are not out yet, so check with the Echizen town tourism office before you plan around it.

Entry
¥310
Hours
9:00–17:00
Closed
Mon, 28 Dec–4 Jan

6 km · 6 min Route 305 south to the cape

02

Echizen-misaki越前岬灯台

Echizen town · Route 305

A lighthouse on the cape, where the coast road runs along the cliff edge above the Sea of Japan. Stop for the view down the coast and a short walk; in winter the wind off the sea is hard and the light is flat and grey, so dress for it. Hidetake (below) is a few minutes on at Tamagawa, so this is also where you can decide on tonight's inn.

Road
Route 305
Entry
Free
Stop
~20 min

10 km · 10 min Route 305 to Kuriya, 厨

03

Echizen crab at the Michi-no-Eki道の駅越前・越前がにミュージアム

Lunch · Kuriya, Echizen town · museum 9:00–17:00, last entry 16:30

Echizen-gani is the male snow crab landed here from 6 November to 20 March, and the yellow tag on the claw is the proof. Seiko-gani, the small female with its orange roe, is sold only until 31 December. The Michi-no-Eki Echizen has a market of Fukui produce and restaurants serving the season's seafood, so lunch here; the open-air bath, 漁火, is next door.

The Echizen Crab Museum 越前がにミュージアム next to it (¥500; live crab tank, a tunnel aquarium and a screen about the crab's life cycle) is closed on Tuesdays, and from November to March also on the 2nd and 4th Tuesdays. The shared car park holds 157 cars. Phone the museum on 0778-37-2626 if your day is close to a closure.

Museum
¥500
Closed
Tue; 2nd/4th Tue Nov–Mar
Parking
157 cars

3 km · 3 min To tonight's inn at Takasa, 高佐

Tonight · an Echizen coast crab inn
Echizen coast · crab plans

Echizenonsen Heisei

越前温泉 平成 · Takasa, Echizen town

A hot-spring inn on the coast listed with one-, two- and three-crab plans for the season. By car it is about 40 minutes from Takefu IC; the bus from Takefu takes about an hour, so this is a stay for drivers.

crab plans, 2 meals · price: ask
Check rates ↗
Fisherman-direct

Echizentamagawa Onsen Hidetake

漁師直送の宿 秀竹 · Tamagawa, Echizen town

A small coast inn listed as 漁師直送の宿 (fish straight from the fishermen), with an Echizen crab full-course plan and private-bath plans. It sits at Tamagawa, between the cape and the crab museum.

crab plan, 2 meals · price: ask
Check rates ↗

Book the crab plan, not just the room. A crab-plan dinner is the point of tonight; the first week after 6 November, New Year and Saturdays cost the most, and January and February weekdays are the value. See the crab ryokan guide for plan prices and how the tags work.

Day 3 · about 105 km · 1h 25m at the wheel

Eiheiji, sesame tofu and Ōno, then Fukui

A temple morning, goma-dōfu, a soba lunch under the castle, and a katsudon dinner at the station. Leave by 8:00.

01

Eiheiji大本山永平寺

Eiheiji town · about 49 km, 41 min from Takasa · gate 8:30–16:30

A working Zen training monastery, founded in 1244 by Dōgen, with more than 70 buildings linked by covered wooden corridors. Admission is ¥700 and visitors are taken until about 16:00. Stay on the corridors, keep left, and do not photograph the monks. Walk-in zazen runs at 10:00, 13:30 and 15:30 (about 50 minutes) unless cancelled for temple business.

Parking: coin car parks by Hanshaku-bashi near the gate, or Eiheiji-sandō IC on the toll-free Chūbu-Jūkan Expressway, about 5 km away. Arrive for 9:00 and you are ahead of the coaches.

Entry
¥700
Gate
8:30–16:30
Founded
1244

2 km · 2 min To Aratani, 荒谷

02

Goma-dōfu, the temple's sesame tofu永平寺胡麻豆腐の里 團助 本店

Snack · Aratani, Eiheiji · 10:00–17:00, irregular closing · 0776-63-3663

Goma-dōfu (sesame tofu) is the shōjin dish Eiheiji is known for: ground sesame set with kudzu starch into a dense, silky block. Danjo 團助 has made it since 1888 and sells fresh pieces at its main shop: 2 pieces for ¥432 and a sesame pudding for ¥380. It is a shop, not a restaurant, with no set meals. Parking holds 60 cars, and it is 5 minutes by car from the temple.

For a full shōjin meal the easy route is to sleep at Hakujukan at the temple gate, whose kaiseki is shōjin ryōri. Otherwise save your lunch for Ōno.

Fresh goma-dōfu
¥432 for 2
Open
10:00–17:00
Parking
60 cars

26 km · 19 min Chūbu-Jūkan Expressway 中部縦貫自動車道 (toll-free) east to Ōno, 大野

03

Soba, katsudon and spring water in Ōno大野在来そば・醤油カツ丼・清水

Lunch · Ōno castle town · Oshōzu spring free, Itoyo no Sato ¥400

Ōno is a grid castle town on a shallow aquifer, so springs rise in street basins. Oshōzu 御清水 is one of Japan's Top 100 Waters (1985) and free to visit. Lunch here is Ōno zairai soba, strong native buckwheat served as oroshi soba with grated daikon, or the soy-sauce katsudon created at お食事処 しもむら (Shimomura): a pork cutlet with a Fukui soy-sauce sauce and plenty of vegetables, lighter than Fukui city's sauce katsudon. Check hours on the day.

In winter look for detchi yōkan, a soft, watery bean jelly eaten only in the cold months. The Shichiken morning market (about 7:00 to 11:00, 20 March to 31 December) will be over by lunchtime, so it works only if you sleep in Ōno (see below). The Ōno guide has the springs and the museums.

Spring
Free
Itoyo no Sato
¥400
Market
~7–11, to 31 Dec
04

Echizen Ōno Castle越前大野城

Kameyama · 249 m · ¥400 · open Apr–Nov, closed Dec–Mar

The 'castle in the sky' on Kameyama, with a keep rebuilt in 1968 on original rough-stone walls. It opens from 9:00 to 17:00 from April to September and 9:00 to 16:00 in October and November, and it is closed from December to March, when you see it from the streets below. The famous cloud sea round the hill is best in November at dawn, and only on a few mornings a season, so do not plan around it.

The Inuyama viewpoint trail is narrow and dangerous in snow and ice; skip it in winter.

Entry
¥400
Hours
9:00–16:00 Oct–Nov
Closed
Dec–Mar

28 km · 23 min Back to Fukui Station, 福井駅

05

Sauce katsudon in Fukuiヨーロッパ軒 総本店

Dinner · Junka, Fukui · ヨーロッパ軒 総本店 11:00–19:50 · no parking

Return the car, then walk about 10 minutes to Yōroppa-ken's head shop, where Fukui's sauce katsudon, a cutlet dipped in Worcester-style sauce on rice, is said to have begun. The sauce katsudon is ¥1,180. Fukui's tourism site lists it closed Mondays and Tuesdays, while other listings differ, so confirm the day. Eat before you leave for the Shinkansen.

Sauce katsudon
¥1,180
Walk
10 min from the station
Closed
Mon, Tue (check)
Tonight · Fukui, or home on the Shinkansen
Natural onsen · new 2026

Onyado Nono Fukui

天然温泉 越前の湯 御宿 野乃福井 · near Fukui Castle

A Japanese-style hotel opened in February 2026, with natural hot-spring baths and tatami corridors, a short walk from the old castle site. A calm last night before the train.

from ¥7,900 ppOur notes →
Check rates ↗

Going on to Tsuruga? Drop the car at Tsuruga Station and carry on into Wakasa (the Wakasa coast trip is coming). One-way fees depend on the company and season, so ask at booking. A fourth night in Ōno? Sleep at Yayoi Ryokan, do the Shichiken market at 7:00 and the castle, then take Ichijōdani on the way back to Fukui. Snow forecast in the hills? Swap Ōno for the Ichijōdani Asakura ruins, 10 minutes from Fukui IC: the museum costs ¥700 and is closed Mondays.

Pick up and drop off

Collecting the car at Fukui Station

Book ahead for the first weeks of November and for New Year, when crab plans fill.

Where to collect

Several rental companies have offices at or near Fukui Station. The Klook search below compares what is free for your dates, and Fukui is a one-hour drive from Komatsu Airport if you fly in.

One-way to Tsuruga or Kanazawa: allowed, with a drop-off fee that the booking page shows. Ask at booking; the figure changes by company and season.

Ask for these

  • Winter tyres if you travel from December to March. Ōno is the snowy end of this trip.
  • An ETC card. The Chūbu-Jūkan Expressway to Ōno and the coast roads are toll-free, but some legs are quicker on the Hokuriku Expressway, which charges.
  • English satnav with a phone-number or map-code search; inn and restaurant numbers are above.

Licence

Taiwan: your licence plus an official Japanese translation (JAF issues them in Japan). Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium and Monaco follow the same rule.

Everyone else: an International Driving Permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, valid for one year from entry, plus your passport. Hong Kong and mainland China licences are not covered here: ask the hire company before you book.

Parking

Maruoka Castle is free. Tōjinbō uses private shop car parks (the municipal lot is closed), the Echizen Michi-no-Eki has 157 places, Danjo 60, and Eiheiji has coin parking near the gate. Yōroppa-ken has no car park, so return the car first.

Find a hire car ↗

Prices and availability on Klook change by date.

Season and roads

Crab dates, closures and winter roads

The roads are open all year; the dates that matter are the crab season and a handful of winter closures. Six things to know before you book.

  1. 01
    Crab season: 6 November 2026 to 20 March 2027. Boats leave at midnight on the 6th and the first auction is that evening. Female seiko-gani stops on 31 December. Bad weather can push the opening back, as it did by three days in 2023, so keep the 6th itself free. A yellow claw tag marks genuine Echizen-gani. See the snow crab guide.
  2. 02
    Tōjinbō is a winter sight. The cliffs have no railings and wet rock is slippery. The boat does not run from 29 December to 31 January and is cancelled in high waves. The tower costs ¥500. The last boat runs to about 15:30 in winter, so be there by early afternoon.
  3. 03
    Closed days to plan around. Maruoka's keep opens only on set dates (1 to 8 November and 12 to 31 December 2026). Ōno castle is closed December to March, and the Shichiken market stops after 31 December. The daffodil park is closed Mondays, and the Echizen Crab Museum on Tuesdays (2nd and 4th Tuesdays only, November to March). Itoyo no Sato and Ichijōdani's museum are closed Mondays.
  4. 04
    Short days. The light fades around 16:30 to 17:00 in December and January. Do the long drives in the morning and be at the inn by 16:30 for the crab dinner, which is served at a set time.
  5. 05
    Ōno is where the snow is. The town sits in a mountain basin. The road from Fukui is a toll-free expressway, but on a heavy-snow day skip it and do Ichijōdani instead; check road information the evening before and the morning of day 3.
  6. 06
    Allow more than the figures. Drive times here come from a routing engine with no traffic. The Route 305 coast road is slower than the fast roads the engine prefers, and weekends in early November, around the Mikuni Crab Festival, are busy.
Where to stay

Swaps and extra nights

The nights above are Kyukamura or Homachi in Mikuni, Heisei or Hidetake on the Echizen coast, and Nono in Fukui. Also see all stays in Awara Onsen and all hotels in Fukui.

Zen ryokan

Hakujukan

永平寺 親禅の宿 柏樹關 · Eiheiji

Ryokan at the temple gate with guided zazen, an early-morning temple visit and shōjin vegetarian kaiseki. Listed in the MICHELIN Guide Hokuriku 2021. Use it as the night for day 3 if you would rather sleep at Eiheiji.

from ¥28,700 pp with 2 mealsOur notes →
Check rates ↗
Tagged Echizen crab

Seifūsō

清風荘 · Awara Onsen

Classic big ryokan with one of Hokuriku's largest garden open-air baths. Twelve crab kaiseki plans, each with a tagged Echizen crab, one whole. A swap for night 1 if you want Awara Onsen, 25 minutes from Tōjinbō.

crab plans ¥71,500–¥102,300 ppOur notes →
Check rates ↗
Castle town

Yayoi Ryokan

弥生旅館 · castle town, Teramachi and Shichiken

A ryokan of about 100 years with seven rooms, on the corner of the temple street and the morning-market street, for the optional night in Ōno.

small ryokan
Check rates ↗
FAQ

Driving questions, answered

When is Echizen crab season?

Male Echizen-gani is landed from 6 November 2026 to 20 March 2027, with a yellow tag on the claw. The small female seiko-gani is sold only until 31 December. Boats sail at midnight on the 6th and the first auction is that evening; bad weather can delay it, as it did in 2023.

How long does it take to drive from Fukui to Tōjinbō?

About 45 minutes to an hour from the city centre, according to Fukui's tourism site. From Mikuni it is 5 minutes. The municipal car park at Tōjinbō is closed, so park in a private shop car park along the approach street.

When do the Echizen daffodils bloom?

Outdoors, normally from early December to early February, depending on the year. Echizen Suisen no Sato Park in Fukui city shows them indoors all year (¥310, 9:00 to 17:00, closed Mondays and 28 December to 4 January). The coast daffodil festival ran from 17 January to 1 February in 2026; the 2027 dates are not announced.

Can I visit Ōno in winter?

Yes, but the castle keep is closed from December to March, so you see it from the streets, and the Shichiken morning market stops after 31 December. The road from Fukui is a toll-free expressway; skip the trip on a heavy-snow day and do the Ichijōdani Asakura ruins instead.

Can I drive in Japan with a Taiwan licence?

Yes, with an official Japanese translation of the licence (JAF issues them in Japan). Licences from Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium and Monaco follow the same rule. Visitors from other countries need an International Driving Permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, valid for one year from entry.

Can I drop the car in Tsuruga instead of Fukui?

Yes, as a one-way hire. Dropping a car at a different office carries a fee that the booking page shows, so ask when you reserve; the figure changes by company and season.

Continue exploring

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