秋
Year-round access
AutumnOct–Nov
Now on this drive · snow on the thatch, expressway ploughed
Snow lies on the roofs from December to March. The Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway is ploughed; hire cars carry winter tyres. Light-up nights: 11, 17, 24 and 31 January 2027, by reservation.
春 夏 秋 冬
Open all year · best December to March for snow
By car · 3 days from Kanazawa Station

Shirakawa-go & Takayama白川郷・高山

Three days from Kanazawa on the Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway: Gokayama tofu and soba, Hida beef in Shirakawa-go, a night at a hot-spring inn, then Takayama's markets and a ryokan dinner. Expressway all the way, no mountain pass.

about 330 km · 4h 30m at the wheelwinter tyres in winterone-way hire to Takayama possible
about 330 km round trip9 min read
Days
3 (2 nights)
Driving
about 4h 30m
Distance
about 330 km
Start
Kanazawa Station
End
Kanazawa, or Takayama one-way
Best
December to March, snow on the thatch
  1. J
  2. F
  3. M
  4. A
  5. M
  6. J
  7. J
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  9. S
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  11. N
  12. D
Find a hire car ↗

Distances and times are for the car alone, no traffic. In snow, allow longer.

In brief

Collect the car at Kanazawa Station, eat Gokayama tofu and soba at Ainokura, reach Shirakawa-go in the afternoon and sleep at Hirase Onsen. Day 2 is Shirakawa-go, Hida beef and Takayama; day 3 is the markets, then home or a one-way drop. About 330 km, 4h 30m of driving, ¥2,000 to park at Shirakawa-go.

Why drive it, and why in winter

The bus from Kanazawa reaches Shirakawa-go in 1h 15m and Takayama in 2h 15m, but the Kanazawa bus does not stop at Gokayama from December to March and the day ends when the last bus leaves. A car lets you eat lunch in Ainokura, see the thatch at dusk and sleep in a hot-spring inn in the valley once the day visitors have gone.

Winter is the season the pictures come from: snow on the roofs from December to March, deepest in January and February. The expressway is ploughed and the trip uses no pass. It does need winter tyres, an ETC card and a day you are willing to cancel if a heavy-snow warning is out; Snow and roads covers that.

Day 1 · about 100 km · 1h 35m at the wheel

Kanazawa to Gokayama and Shirakawa-go

Eat in Gokayama, sleep a few minutes from Shirakawa-go. Pick the car up by 8:30.

01

Ainokura相倉合掌造り集落

Gokayama IC · about 45 km, 45 min from Kanazawa Station

The larger of the two Gokayama villages: 20 gasshō houses on a terraced slope, free to enter, with the viewing deck above the village for the snow photograph. The loop takes about 30 minutes. Park in the car park at the village edge and walk in; the lanes are narrow and icy in winter.

The village opens to day visitors from 8:30 to 17:00. Go first, before the coaches.

Houses
20
Entry
Free
Loop
~30 min
02

Gokayama tofu and soba五箇山豆腐・蕎麦

Lunch · Ainokura · 茶店 まつや (Matsuya) 11:00–15:30

Gokayama tofu is so firm it can be carried on a rope. The set meal at 茶店 まつや (Matsuya) is mountain-vegetable soba, firm tofu and tempura, about ¥2,800; it is open daily, last order 15:30. 合掌茶屋 相倉屋 by the village entrance serves soba and udon from 8:30 to 17:00 and closes on irregular days.

Eat at 11:00 as the doors open and you miss the queue. Hours are shorter in winter, so confirm on the day.

Set meal
~¥2,800
Last order
15:30
Open
Daily

6 km · 10 min Local road to Suganuma, 菅沼

03

Suganuma菅沼集落

Route 156 · open 9:00–17:00 from December to March, entry until 16:00

The smaller village: 9 houses beside the Shō River, reached by lift from the car park above. It takes under an hour, and in winter you may have it to yourself. The Gokayama Folk Museum is inside a farmhouse; the museum area costs ¥300, and the Saltpeter Museum is closed for repairs until further notice.

Houses
9
Museums
¥300
Visit
< 1 hr

35 km · 30 min Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway 東海北陸自動車道, Gokayama IC to Shirakawa-go IC

04

Shirakawa-go: Ogimachi and Shiroyama viewpoint荻町・城山展望台

Parking ¥2,000 a car, cash · viewpoint 15–20 min uphill, or the ¥300 shuttle

Park in one of the village lots (¥2,000 a car since 1 October 2025; the three lots are Seseragi Park Ogo, Midashima Village Park and Terao) and walk in. Climb to the Shiroyama viewpoint 城山天守閣展望台 for the view down over the roofs, then walk the lanes of Ogimachi. Wada-ke 和田家 (¥400, 9:00–17:00) is the largest house.

Light fades around 16:30 to 17:00 in December and January, so arrive by 14:00. On the four light-up evenings the village admits only people with a tour, a parking reservation or a room in the village (see Snow and roads).

Parking
¥2,000
Viewpoint
15–20 min
Wada-ke
¥400

13 km · 10 min Route 156 south to Hirase Onsen 平瀬温泉

Tonight · Hirase Onsen, or a farmhouse in Ainokura
Hot-spring inn

Tōsuke-no-yu Fujiya

藤助の湯 ふじや · Hirase Onsen, 10 min from Ogimachi

An inn on Route 156 at Hirase, south of the village. The spring is a sulfur-bearing sodium chloride water that comes out at 92°C: a good way to end a snow day.

Check rates ↗

Or sleep in a gasshō farmhouse: Minshuku Goyomon in Ainokura cooks iwana char over the hearth and serves Gokayama tofu. Do the day in reverse order (Shirakawa-go first, Ainokura last) and you check in before dark.

Day 2 · about 66 km · 50 min at the wheel

Shirakawa-go to Takayama

Hida beef at lunch, sake in the afternoon, a ryokan dinner. Be in Takayama by 15:00.

01

Shirakawa-go before the coaches和田家・合掌造り民家園

10 min north of Hirase · Wada-ke 9:00–17:00, Minka-en 9:00–16:00 in winter

Drive back up Route 156 and park (¥2,000 again, so ask whether the ticket covers a second entry). Wada-ke opens at 9:00 (¥400). The Gasshō-zukuri Minka-en 合掌造り民家園 across the river, an open-air museum of nine transplanted houses, costs ¥800 and runs 9:00 to 16:00 from December to February, closed Thursdays from December to March.

Wada-ke
¥400
Minka-en
¥800
Minka-en closed
Thu, Dec–Mar
02

Hida beef lunch in a gasshō house飛騨牛・朴葉味噌

Lunch · the village street · cash recommended

Most lunch shops sit in old gasshō buildings and serve Hida-gyu 飛騨牛, Gifu's prized wagyu: a Hida beef bowl or burger at several shops, or hōba miso, beef and Hida miso grilled on a dried magnolia leaf. Expect ¥1,800 to ¥2,500 for a beef bowl. Eat before noon in light-up season.

Beef bowl
¥1,800–2,500
Pay
Often cash
Eat by
12:00

66 km · 50 min Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway to Hida-Kiyomi, then the Chūbu-Jūkan Expressway into Takayama

03

Sanmachi old town and the sake breweries三町

East of the station, across the Miyagawa river · free

Three preserved streets (Kami-Sannomachi, Kami-Ninomachi and Kami-Ichinomachi) of latticed merchant houses, sake shops and craft shops. They are crowded from 10:00 to 16:00 and nearly empty in the evening. Seven sake breweries stand close together; a cedar ball (sugidama) over the door means the new sake is ready, and Harada Shuzo lets you taste more than ten and keep the cup.

Parking: city car parks charge about ¥150 per 30 minutes by day with no daily cap, and some private lots by the station cap at about ¥900 to ¥1,000 for 24 hours (a blog source, so check the sign). Ask your ryokan about parking when you book.

Entry
Free
Breweries
7
Quietest
After 16:00
04

Hida beef for dinner飛騨牛

Dinner · Sanmachi streets, or kaiseki at the ryokan

Hida beef shows up as nigiri, skewers, a grill and hōba miso on a leaf. If you booked a ryokan with dinner, the beef is in the kaiseki and you walk Sanmachi after dark. Otherwise eat in the old town; most places take walk-ins before 19:00 in winter.

Best
Evening
Style
Nigiri, grill, kaiseki
Tonight · Takayama ryokan
Ryokan · splurge

Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan

本陣平野屋 花兆庵 · by the red Nakabashi bridge

The classic splurge: Hida beef kaiseki and 26 rooms, a few minutes from Sanmachi.

Check rates ↗

Or Sumiyoshi Ryokan, a Taishō merchant townhouse facing the morning market, or Takayama Ouan with its rooftop bath.

Day 3 · about 163 km · 2h 10m at the wheel with the Furukawa detour

Takayama to Hida-Furukawa and back to Kanazawa

Markets first, then the road home before the afternoon light goes.

01

Morning markets朝市

Miyagawa 7:00–12:00 (from 8:00 Dec–Mar) · Jinya-mae 6:00–12:00 (from 7:00 Jan–Mar)

Vegetables, pickles, flowers and snacks along the river and in front of the Jinya, open every day. Go before 9:00 and eat breakfast standing up. Both markets start an hour later in winter.

Miyagawa
7:00–12:00
Jinya-mae
6:00–12:00
Closed
Never
02

Takayama Jinya高山陣屋

Hachikenmachi 1-5 · 8:45–16:30 from November to March · ¥500

Built in 1692 as the shogunate's office for the Hida region, and the only such magistrate's office in Japan whose main buildings survive. Allow 30 to 60 minutes; last entry 30 minutes before closing.

Fee
¥500
Time
30–60 min

15 km · 15 min Route 41 north to Hida-Furukawa 飛騨古川

03

Hida-Furukawa (optional)飛騨古川

5 min on foot from the station · half a day

White-walled storehouses along the Seto River with a fraction of Takayama's visitors, and Kaba Shuzojo (founded 1704) pours tastings in its shop. In winter the canal carries snow-melt and the carp sit in a pond at the Masujima castle ruins, so go for the street rather than the fish. Our Hida-Furukawa guide has the rest.

Walk
~1 hr
Carp pond
Late Nov–early Apr

about 148 km · 1h 55m Back through Takayama to Kanazawa on the Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway. Skip Hida-Furukawa and it is about 130 km and 1h 40m

Tonight · back in Kanazawa, or drop the car in Takayama
Last night

Hyatt Centric Kanazawa

Kanazawa Station West Exit · 2 min walk

Modern lifestyle hotel directly opposite the Shinkansen exit, so the car can go back to the station the same evening.

Check rates ↗

One-way: you can return the car at a Takayama office and take the bus or the Hida line instead. Hire companies charge a cross-prefecture drop-off fee that the booking page shows, so ask when you reserve. Or see all hotels in Kanazawa.

Pick up and drop off

Collecting the car at Kanazawa Station

Book ahead for December to March, and tell the desk you are going to Shirakawa-go.

Where to collect

Several rental companies have offices around Kanazawa Station: Toyota Rent a Car, Nippon Rent A Car, Times Car Rental, Orix and Nissan. The Klook search below compares what is available for your dates.

One-way to Takayama: allowed, with a drop-off fee that the booking page shows. Ask at booking; the figure changes by company and season.

Ask for these

  • Winter tyres. Some hire companies fit them as standard from mid December to the third week of March; others charge extra. Ask for the dates.
  • An ETC card. The Kanazawa Higashi interchange becomes ETC-only from 16 December 2026, and the card also pays the expressway tolls at the end.
  • English satnav with a phone-number or map-code search.

Licence

Taiwan: your licence plus an official Japanese translation (JAF issues them in Japan). Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium and Monaco follow the same rule.

Everyone else: an International Driving Permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, valid for one year from entry, plus your passport. Hong Kong and mainland China licences are not covered here: ask the hire company before you book.

Tolls and parking

Expressway tolls are charged by distance and paid with the ETC card; we have no figure for the round trip, so use NEXCO Central's route search before you go. Shirakawa-go parking is ¥2,000 a car, and Gokayama car parks charge a small fee (about ¥500 to ¥1,000, sources differ), so carry cash.

Find a hire car ↗

Prices and availability on Klook change by date.

Snow and roads

Driving here in winter

Snow falls from December to March, deepest in January and February; the thatch can still carry it into April. Six things to know before you go.

  1. 01
    The expressway is the road. The Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway is ploughed through the winter and runs from Kanazawa to Gokayama, Shirakawa-go and Takayama. This trip does not use the Hakusan Shirakawa-go White Road, which closes for the winter (planned 10 November 2026) and reopens about mid June.
  2. 02
    Winter tyres are required, not optional. When snow falls, NEXCO sets winter-tyre controls on this expressway (for example Shirotori IC to Gokayama IC in November 2024), and cars without winter tyres are not allowed on. Hire companies in Hokuriku know this; confirm yours has fitted them.
  3. 03
    Skip the day when a heavy-snow warning is out. In heavy snow NEXCO closes sections of the expressway; on 24 January 2026 the stretch between Shirotori IC and Mino IC closed for snow and poor visibility. Check NEXCO Central's road information the evening before and the morning of each leg, and take the bus if the road is shut. Buses run with chains and add 15 to 20 minutes.
  4. 04
    Short days. The light fades around 16:30 to 17:00 in December and January. Plan to be at your inn by then, and do the long drives in the morning.
  5. 05
    Village lanes are the slippery part. The expressway is the easy bit. The lanes in Ainokura and Ogimachi are narrow and icy, so park in the lots and walk.
  6. 06
    Light-up nights: 11, 17, 24 and 31 January 2027. Entry is by reservation only, with a bus tour, a parking place or a room in the village. The first round of parking reservations (opened 10 September) has sold out. Check shirakawa-go.gr.jp for later rounds, and ask a Hirase inn whether its room counts before you rely on it. Our light-up guide has the rest.
Where to stay

The nights, and the alternatives

Fujiya, Kachoan and the Kanazawa hotel are above. Also see all stays in Shirakawa-go and all hotels in Takayama.

Heritage minshuku

Minshuku Goyomon

民宿 五ヨ門 · Ainokura village

Gasshō farmhouse in the middle of Ainokura, up to 6 guests in 3 tatami rooms. Iwana char grilled over the irori hearth, mountain vegetables and firm Gokayama tofu.

from ¥15,000 ppOur notes →
Check rates ↗
Traditional

Sumiyoshi Ryokan

寿美吉旅館 · on the Miyagawa river

A late-Taishō merchant townhouse and former pawn shop, a registered national cultural property, full of antiques and facing the morning market across the water.

Check rates ↗
Rooftop bath

Takayama Ouan

飛騨花里の湯 高山桜庵 · 5 min from the station

Tatami throughout, an open-air bath on the top floor and three private baths. Shoes off at the door.

Check rates ↗
FAQ

Driving questions, answered

Can I drive from Kanazawa to Shirakawa-go in winter?

Yes. The Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway is ploughed all winter and runs the whole way, so you never need a mountain pass: about 76 km and 1h 15m from Kanazawa to Shirakawa-go without stops (the bus takes the same time). Hire a car with winter tyres, and stay off the road when a heavy-snow warning is out, because NEXCO closes sections in the worst storms.

When does it snow at Shirakawa-go?

Snow falls from December to March and lies deepest in January and February; the thatch can still carry snow into April. The 2027 light-up is on 11, 17, 24 and 31 January, by reservation only (a bus tour, a parking place or a room in the village).

How long is the drive from Kanazawa to Takayama?

About 130 km and 1h 40m by expressway without stops, against 2h 15m for the Nōhi and Hokutetsu bus. In snow allow longer. This trip breaks it into Gokayama, Shirakawa-go and a night at Hirase, so you reach Takayama on day 2.

Is parking at Shirakawa-go free?

No. Since 1 October 2025 the village car parks charge ¥2,000 a car, so bring cash. On light-up nights parking is by reservation only; the first round of 2027 reservations, which opened on 10 September, has sold out.

Do hire cars in Hokuriku come with winter tyres?

Often, in the winter season. One booking page lists winter tyres as standard from 15 December to 20 March; others charge extra or ask you to request them. Check the dates and the cost before you pay, and do not take a car on summer tyres in December to March.

Can I drive in Japan with a Taiwan licence?

Yes, with an official Japanese translation of the licence (JAF issues them in Japan). Licences from Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium and Monaco follow the same rule. Visitors from other countries need an International Driving Permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, valid for one year from entry.

Can I drop the car in Takayama instead of going back to Kanazawa?

Yes, as a one-way hire. Dropping a car in another prefecture carries a fee that the booking page shows, so ask when you reserve; the figure changes by company and season.

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