秋
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AutumnOct–Nov
Now in Hokuriku · first snow on the high peaks
Murodō normally gets its first snow in mid-October, and the Alpine Route closes on 30 November 2026. In the villages, Shirakawa-go sees a dusting at most before December.
春 夏 秋 冬
Climate averages 1991–2020 · checked October 2026
Hokuriku · Shirakawa-go · Kanazawa · Toyama · Takayama

Snow in Hokuriku北陸の雪

Shirakawa-go has snow on the ground from late December to late February in most winters. Kanazawa and Toyama get wet, patchy snow in January and February. The mountain roads shut for the winter. These are averages, not a forecast.

Shirakawa-go: late Dec to late Feb Kanazawa: patchy, Jan–Feb Ski lifts from 21 Nov
By Kelvin Updated 24 Oct 2026
In brief

Shirakawa-go and Gokayama usually have snow on the ground from late December to late February, deepest in February (173 cm at the deepest in an average February; the record is 297 cm). Kanazawa and Toyama get wet, patchy snow in January and February that rarely lies for more than a few days. High roads close: the Alpine Route shuts on 30 November 2026 and the Kurobe Gorge railway after 6 December. Hakuba and Myōkō ski from mid-December. For snow by train from Tokyo, see Japan in winter. This page is climate, not a forecast.

How to read the numbers

Climate is not a forecast. The figures are 30-year averages for 1991–2020 from the weather station at or nearest each place (Shirakawa-go has its own, at 478 m). One winter can start three weeks early or late, and the same week can be bare one year and under two metres of snow the next. Use the table to choose a month, then check the forecast in the week you travel.

Two numbers, and they are not the same. “Deepest cover” is the average, over 30 years, of the deepest snow on the ground reached in that month. “Snowfall” adds up every fall, so it is far larger, because snow settles and melts as it comes: Shirakawa-go gets about 9.7 m of snowfall a year but its deepest cover averages 1.8 m. The tables below use deepest cover, because that is what you will see.

Will there be snow in…?

November to April, place by place

Find your month. Each cell shows the average deepest snow on the ground that month, then the usual daily low to high.

MonthIn one lineShirakawa-go 白川郷Takayama 高山Toyama 富山Kanazawa 金沢
NovemberRain in the cities, first snow on the high mountains, a dusting at most in Shirakawa-go. Kenrokuen's yukitsuri ropes go up on 1 November.5 cm · 3 to 13 °C1 cm · 3 to 13 °C0 cm · 7 to 16 °C0 cm · 8 to 16 °C
DecemberSnow starts to settle in Shirakawa-go and Takayama from the second half. Toyama's first snow is normally around 3 December; Kanazawa gets rain and sleet. The Alpine Route is shut.84 cm · −2 to 6 °C21 cm · −2 to 6 °C23 cm · 3 to 10 °C11 cm · 4 to 10 °C
JanuarySnow season proper: deep, settled snow in Shirakawa-go, wet snow in the cities that melts within days. Shirakawa-go light-up on 11, 17, 24 and 31 January 2027.148 cm · −4 to 3 °C44 cm · −5 to 3 °C40 cm · 0 to 6 °C27 cm · 1 to 7 °C
FebruaryThe deepest snow of the year in the villages and ski areas, and a few more clear days. Kenrokuen is lit on 6–10, 13, 20 and 27 February 2027; Gokayama light-ups 6–7 and 20–21 February.173 cm · −5 to 4 °C45 cm · −5 to 5 °C39 cm · 0 to 7 °C22 cm · 1 to 8 °C
MarchThe thaw. Shirakawa-go is still under about 125 cm on average, but the cities are done by mid-March, when the yukitsuri come down. The ski areas keep going.125 cm · −2 to 8 °C18 cm · −2 to 10 °C10 cm · 3 to 12 °C7 cm · 3 to 12 °C
AprilSnow is mostly gone from the valleys. The Alpine Route opened on 15 April in 2025 and 2026, between snow walls.32 cm · 3 to 16 °C2 cm · 3 to 17 °C0 cm · 7 to 18 °C0 cm · 8 to 17 °C

1991–2020 averages. Shirakawa-go is its own station at 478 m; the others are the city stations. Higher up it is deeper and colder. Murodō and the Kurobe Gorge have no station in these figures. Light-up and opening dates are for 2026–27 and can move; see When to visit for the other seasons.

Place by place

Where the snow is, and the best weeks to see it

For each place: first snow, when the cover is reliable, how deep it gets, when it melts and what you will see. Best weeks are my reading of the depth and sunshine figures, not an official recommendation.

01

Shirakawa-go白川郷

Kanazawa to Shirakawa-go 1h 15m by bus, ¥2,800, seats reserved

First snow: late November to early December, but it rarely settles before December (November averages 12 cm of snowfall and 5 cm at the deepest). Reliable cover: late December to late February, still deep into early March. The average deepest cover is 84 cm in December, 148 cm in January, 173 cm in February and 125 cm in March. Melt: through March, mostly gone from the valley by mid-April. Daily lows run from −2 °C in December to −5 °C in February, and highs stay between 3 °C and 6 °C.

What you will see: thatched gasshō roofs under a metre or more of snow, and the village from the Shiroyama viewpoint. It is also the greyest place on this page: an average January has only 41 hours of sunshine and February 62, so blue sky is a bonus. The record is 297 cm (9 February 2006); 282 cm was reached on 20 February 2025. Best weeks: the last week of January to the third week of February, with the light-up on 11, 17, 24 and 31 January 2027 (reservation only). From Nagoya, see Nagoya to Shirakawa-go.

Cover
late Dec–late Feb
Deepest
173 cm (Feb)
Light-up
11–31 Jan 2027
02

Gokayama五箇山

Shin-Takaoka to Ainokura 1h 03m by Kaetsuno bus, ¥1,100

Gokayama has no weather station in these averages, so I use Shirakawa-go's: the two sets of villages sit in the same mountains and follow the same pattern, with snow from late December to late February, deepest in February. Expect a quieter village than Shirakawa-go, with Ainokura's farmhouses under snow and rooms that book out months ahead.

Best weeks: the light-ups, at Suganuma on Tuesday 26 January and 6–7 February, and at Ainokura on 20–21 February 2027. The Kanazawa to Shirakawa-go bus does not stop in Gokayama from December to March; the World Heritage Bus runs daily in winter, and a car needs 4WD with winter tyres. See Gokayama and a farmhouse stay.

Cover
late Dec–late Feb
Light-ups
26 Jan, 6–7, 20–21 Feb
Bus
World Heritage Bus
03

Kanazawa and Kenrokuen金沢・兼六園

Kenrokuen is a short bus ride from Kanazawa Station

First snow: late November to mid December. Snow days: mostly January and February, as wet, heavy snow that usually turns to slush within a day or two. The average deepest cover is only 11 cm in December, 27 cm in January, 22 cm in February and 7 cm in March, and rain and sleet are as common as snow (December is the wettest month, 301 mm). Melt: done by mid-March. Lows sit around 1 °C and highs at 7–8 °C in January and February; sunshine is 62 hours in January.

What you will see: the yukitsuri rope cones at Kenrokuen go up on 1 November and come down in mid-March, and the pines look best after a fall. The garden is lit on 6–10, 13, 20 and 27 February 2027. Best weeks: the morning after a snowfall in late January or February, at opening. Keep a museum plan for the grey days (rainy-day ideas).

Snow days
Jan–Feb
Deepest
27 cm (Jan)
Ropes
1 Nov–mid-Mar
04

Toyama and the Tateyama view富山・雨晴

Toyama city, and the Himi Line to Amaharashi on the bay

First snow: the normal date is 3 December (it came on 3 December in 2025, 8 December in 2024 and 17 December in 2023). Snow days: January and February, with an average deepest cover of 40 cm and 39 cm (23 cm in December, 10 cm in March). Melt: by mid-March, with lows around 0 °C and highs of 6–7 °C in midwinter. January has about 68 hours of sunshine.

What you will see: the real winter sight is the 3,000 m Tateyama range, white across Toyama Bay, from the Amaharashi coast on a clear cold morning from December to February. Best weeks: the clear mornings after a cold front, in January and February, which you only know a day ahead. For the city itself see Toyama city.

First snow
3 Dec (normal)
Deepest
40 cm (Jan)
View
Dec–Feb mornings
05

Tateyama Murodō and the snow wall立山室堂・雪の大谷

Alpine Route open 15 April to 30 November in 2026

Winter: closed. Murodō (2,450 m) normally gets its first snow in mid-October, and the Alpine Route closes on 30 November 2026. It opened on 15 April in 2025 and 2026; 2027 is not announced. So there is no way to see Murodō under snow from December to mid-April, and no weather-station figures for it here. It is roughly 15 °C colder than the plain.

What you will see when it opens: the Yuki-no-Ōtani walls beside the road, 12 m in 2026, 16 m in 2025, 14 m in 2024 and 13 m in 2023, on a walk that ran 15 April to 25 June in 2026 (9:30–15:00). Best weeks: late April outside Golden Week. Details in the snow wall guide and the Alpine Route guide.

Closes
30 Nov 2026
Opened
15 Apr (2025, 2026)
Wall
12 m (2026)
06

Takayama高山

Hida limited express from Nagoya or Toyama · bus from Shirakawa-go 50 min, ¥2,800

First snow: late November to December (November averages 2 cm of snowfall). Snow days: January and February, with an average deepest cover of 44 cm and 45 cm (21 cm in December, 18 cm in March). Melt: through March, gone by April. It is cold, with lows near −5 °C and highs of 3–5 °C in midwinter, but it has more than twice the sun of Shirakawa-go: 93 hours in January and 116 in February.

What you will see: Sanmachi and the Jinya gate under snow that settles overnight and slushes by afternoon. The Miyagawa morning market opens at 8:00 from December to March. Best weeks: mid January to mid February, the morning after a fall. Buses run with chains and can be delayed or cancelled in heavy snow, so keep slack. See Takayama.

Snow days
Jan–Feb
Deepest
45 cm (Feb)
Sun
93 h (Jan)
07

Jigokudani snow monkeys地獄谷野猿公苑

Nagano to Yudanaka 44–46 min on the Nagaden, then bus and a walk

Nagano city's own numbers (26 cm deepest in January, 23 cm in February) understate the valley, which sits in the mountains. The nearest station in this table, Nozawa Onsen, has 171 cm in January and 199 cm in February. Best: December to March, with snow-capped faces in January and February.

Entry is ¥1,000 from 1 December 2026 (¥800 until 30 November), 9:00–16:00 in winter, along a trail of about 2 km. Wear micro-spikes, and arrive early: the monkeys usually come down between 9:00 and 10:00. Best weeks: late January to mid February. Stay in Shibu for the baths: see Yudanaka and Shibu.

Entry
¥1,000 from 1 Dec
Best
Dec–Mar
Open
9:00–16:00
Ski season 2026–27

Hakuba, Myōkō, Nozawa and Shiga Kogen

The ski areas get more snow than any town above. Myōkō and Nozawa are the deepest. Hakuba has the longest season, with Happō-One and its neighbours running into early May. More in where to ski in Hokuriku.

AreaDeepest, Jan / FebOpening 2026–27Season ends
Hakuba 白馬82 / 97 cmGoryu one lift from 21 Nov; Cortina and Norikura 12 Dec; Iwatake 18 Dec; Happō-One, Hakuba47 and Tsugaike not announcedCortina 29 Mar, Norikura 4 Apr, Iwatake 28 Mar (planned); Happō-One, Goryu, Hakuba47 and Tsugaike ran to 3–6 May last winter
Myōkō 妙高172 / 192 cmAkakura Onsen lift tickets from 12 Dec; Akakura Kankō, Ikenotaira and Suginohara 19 DecAkakura 31 Mar; Ikenotaira and Suginohara 28 Mar
Nozawa Onsen 野沢温泉171 / 199 cmRegular period from 19 Dec28 Mar
Shiga Kogen 志賀高原Not in these averages5 Dec5 May

Depths are the 30-year averages at the valley stations (Hakuba 703 m, Sekiyama for Myōkō 350 m, Nozawa Onsen 576 m); the slopes above get more. Dates are as the resorts had announced them by 14 October 2026 and can change. The Hakuba Valley day pass is ¥11,100 for an adult day.

What to wear

Winter in Hokuriku: dress for wet, not just cold

In Kanazawa and Toyama the January and February range is about 0 to 8 °C and it is wet; in Shirakawa-go it is −5 to 4 °C; at Hakuba it is −7 to 3 °C. The city is the damp cold, the villages the dry cold, and you are outside for longer in the villages.

  1. 01
    Waterproof boots with a deep tread. City snow is slush, and village streets are packed snow and ice. Leather soles and trainers are the usual mistake.
  2. 02
    Layers, with a waterproof shell on top. A thermal base layer, a fleece or jumper, a down jacket, and a hooded shell that stops wind and wet snow. It will be warm in trains and shops, so you need to be able to take layers off.
  3. 03
    A hood, and an umbrella for the city. Kanazawa and Toyama get rain and sleet as often as snow. In wind, a hood works where an umbrella does not.
  4. 04
    Hat, gloves, scarf and hand warmers. Disposable heat packs (kairo) are sold in convenience stores and drugstores.
  5. 05
    Spare socks. Wet feet end a day faster than cold ones. At Jigokudani, add slip-on micro-spikes for the trail.
  6. 06
    Sunglasses. On the rare clear day, snow glare is strong, above all at Murodō in April and on the ski slopes.
If you would rather not drive or queue

Tours and passes for snow

Light-up nights sell out, and a tour is the realistic second chance. A lift pass is cheaper bought from the resort where you can.

Light-up
灯

Nagoya light-up day tour

Nagoya · 2027 dates 11, 17, 24 and 31 January

A day tour with Hida Takayama and the Shirakawa-go light-up, 09:00 to 22:30 from Nagoya, with an English guide. The listing shows the 2027 dates; it is not a Kanazawa departure.

See the tour ↗
白

Shirakawa-go and Takayama from Kanazawa

Bus day tour · lunch included

Snow on the thatch without booking the buses yourself. Leaves from JR Kanazawa Station with English-speaking staff.

See the tour ↗
券

Hakuba Valley day pass

1 to 6 days

One pass for the valley’s resorts, with shuttle buses between them. The official price is ¥11,100 for one adult day in 2026–27.

See the lift pass ↗
Where to stay

Five stays for the snow

A farmhouse in Gokayama, a ryokan in Takayama, a bathhouse inn at the snow monkeys and two ski hotels, so you wake up in it.

Gokayama

Minshuku Goyomon

民宿 五ヨ門 · Ainokura village

Gasshō farmhouse for up to 6 guests, with a hearth-cooked dinner, in the village the snow closes in on. Ainokura's own light-up is on 20–21 February 2027; confirm the date with the house when you book.

from ¥15,000 ppOur notes →
Check rates ↗
Takayama · splurge

Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan

本陣平野屋 花兆庵 · by the red Nakabashi bridge

Hida beef kaiseki and 26 rooms, a few minutes from Sanmachi, where the old town sits under snow in January and February.

Check rates ↗
Shibu · snow monkeys

Kanaguya

歴史の宿 金具屋 · Shibu main street

The 1936 Saigetsurō widely linked to Spirited Away, eight baths and a guests-only building tour at 17:30, in the village for the snow monkeys. Minimum two per room.

¥18,700–¥42,900 pp
Check rates ↗
Historic · 1937

Akakura Kankō Hotel

赤倉観光ホテル · above the Akakura Kankō slopes

One of Japan's first ski-resort hotels (1937), at 1,000 m above its slopes, in Myōkō, the deepest of the ski areas above. Sulphur onsen and views to Lake Nojiri.

historic hotelOur notes →
Check rates ↗
Ski-in · onsen

Hotel Green Plaza Hakuba

ホテルグリーンプラザ白馬 · Cortina · ski-in

Ski-in hotel at the foot of Cortina with its own 11-bath onsen and a free shuttle from Minami-Otari, the Ōito Line change 1 hour from Itoigawa.

from ¥9,260 ppOur notes →
Check rates ↗
FAQ

Snow in Hokuriku, quick answers

Is there snow in Shirakawa-go in December?

Usually from the second half of the month. In an average December the deepest snow on the ground in Shirakawa-go is 84 cm, against 5 cm in November, but the average hides a lot of variation: early December can be bare and late December deep. Reliable cover runs from late December to late February. This is climate, not a forecast, so check the forecast a few days before you travel. See Nagoya to Shirakawa-go.

When is the best time to see snow in Shirakawa-go?

From the last week of January to the third week of February. The average deepest cover is 148 cm in January and 173 cm in February, and the light-up evenings are 11, 17, 24 and 31 January 2027 (reservation only). Sunshine is scarce, 41 hours in January and 62 in February, so a blue sky is a bonus, not a plan.

Does it snow in Kanazawa and Toyama?

Yes, but lightly, mostly in January and February. The average deepest cover is 27 cm in Kanazawa and 40 cm in Toyama in January, and wet snow often melts within a day or two. Toyama's normal first snow is 3 December. Expect rain and sleet as often as snow, with highs of 6–8 °C. Kenrokuen's yukitsuri ropes go up on 1 November and come down in mid-March.

Can I go to Tateyama Kurobe or the Kurobe Gorge in winter?

No. The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route closes on 30 November 2026 and opened on 15 April in 2025 and 2026; 2027 is not announced. The Kurobe Gorge Railway runs the full line until 30 November, with a short Unazuki to Sasadaira run on 1–6 December. In winter, its Winter Premium Tour runs on 18 weekend and holiday days from 10 January to 28 February 2027 (a 530 m ride, ¥4,000 for adults), and Unazuki Onsen stays open.

When does the ski season start in Hokuriku?

The earliest is Goryu in Hakuba, with one lift from 21 November 2026. Most Hakuba, Myōkō and Nozawa lifts open between 12 and 19 December and run to late March, Shiga Kogen runs 5 December to 5 May, and the high Hakuba resorts ran into early May last winter. See where to ski.

What should I wear for snow in Hokuriku, and will trains and buses run?

Waterproof boots with a deep tread, base layers, a fleece, a down jacket and a waterproof shell, plus a hat and gloves. January and February run 0 to 8 °C in Kanazawa and Toyama and −5 to 4 °C in Shirakawa-go. The Hokuriku Shinkansen runs through heavy snow; buses to Shirakawa-go and Takayama run with chains and can be delayed or cancelled, and the Ōito Line can be suspended after heavy snowfall, so leave slack in your connections.

Continue planning

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