秋
Getting around now
AutumnOct–Nov
Matsumoto · Kamikōchi to 15 Nov
Kamikōchi is open to 15 November and the Alpine Route to 30 November 2026. Castle e-tickets are timed, so book a slot.
春 夏 秋 冬
Checked 14 Oct 20268 min read
In brief

Matsumoto Castle is a National Treasure keep from the 1590s. Entry is ¥1,200 as a timed e-ticket (¥1,300 on paper), 08:30 to 17:00, last entry 16:30, open every day except 29 to 31 December. Matsumoto is about 50 minutes from Nagano on the Shinano, about 2h 30m from Shinjuku on the Azusa (¥6,730 reserved), and the Hokuriku Arch Pass covers the Ōito Line from Itoigawa and the Shinonoi Line from Nagano. Kamikōchi is open to 15 November.

A castle town between the Alps and the Hokuriku line

Matsumoto (松本) sits at about 600 m in a basin ringed by the Northern Alps. It is also the junction that links the Hokuriku side of Japan to the Alps: the Ōito Line runs from here to Itoigawa on the Sea of Japan, the Shinonoi Line runs to Nagano and the Hokuriku Shinkansen, and the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route from Toyama ends about an hour away at Shinano-Ōmachi. That makes it the natural hinge for a loop, as well as a place worth a day by itself.

Walk it in this order: castle at opening, Nawate and Nakamachi on the way back, then the Kusama museum or Kaichi School in the afternoon. The wasabi farm and Kamikōchi are separate days.

What to see

Eight things, from the keep to the Alps

01

Matsumoto Castle松本城

15 min on foot from Matsumoto Station, or about 5 min by bus

One of five castle keeps in Japan that are National Treasures (with Himeji, Hikone, Inuyama and Matsue). The black five-tier, six-storey keep dates from the 1590s; the red-railed Tsukimi-yagura (月見櫓, moon-viewing turret) was added in the Kan’ei era (1624 to 1644). Inside, the stairs are steep; a visit to the keep takes 45 to 60 minutes.

The ticket (¥1,200 e-ticket with a timed slot, ¥1,300 on paper, children ¥400) covers the inner garden and the keep. E-tickets cannot be changed or cancelled, and same-day tickets cannot be timed. The castle’s own page showed a wait of about 20 minutes at the keep entrance on a normal day; Golden Week and Obon queues run far longer, and staff limit numbers for safety. Hours are 08:30 to 17:00 (last entry 16:30), longer on 8 to 16 August (08:00 to 18:00), and 10:00 to 15:30 on 1 to 3 January.

Ticket
¥1,200 e-ticket
Hours
08:30 to 17:00
Allow
1h 30m to 2h
02

Nakamachi中町通り

On the walk between the station and the castle · south of the Metoba River

A merchant street of white-walled kura (storehouses) with black-and-white lattice plaster, now craft shops, cafés and sake sellers. It is the part of Matsumoto that looks old without being a museum, and it sits on the way from the station to the castle, so it costs almost nothing in time to walk it instead of the main road.

Entry
Free
Allow
45 min to 1 hour
Best for
Crafts, coffee
03

Nawate-dōri縄手通り

Beside the Metoba River (女鳥羽川), just across from the castle side

A short pedestrian lane of small shops along the river bank, known as Frog Street for its frog goods. Snacks, souvenirs and old-style shopfronts; it is touristy, and a good place to fill the half hour before a timed castle slot.

Entry
Free
Allow
30 min
Pair with
Nakamachi
04

Matsumoto City Museum of Art松本市美術館

About 12 min on foot from the station, or 5 min on the Gurutto Matsumoto bus to the Matsumoto-shi Bijutsukan stop

Yayoi Kusama was born in Matsumoto, and the museum keeps a permanent room of her work, “Yayoi Kusama: The place for my soul”, running all year. The polka-dot vending machines by the entrance are the most photographed thing in the building. The permanent collection is ¥700 online or ¥800 at the counter; special exhibitions are priced separately. Open 09:00 to 17:00 (last entry 16:30), closed Mondays (the next weekday if Monday is a holiday) and 28 December to 4 January.

Collection
¥700 online
Hours
09:00 to 17:00
Closed
Mondays
05

Former Kaichi School旧開智学校

Short walk north-east of the castle · entrance moved to the north-west side on 10 Oct 2026

Opened in 1876 and now a National Treasure: a Meiji school in a western style, with an octagonal tower and carved waves over the entrance. Seismic retrofit work kept it shut for about three and a half years; it reopened on 9 November 2024, and 2026 is its 150th year, marked with an exhibition of the building’s architectural drawings. Open 09:00 to 17:00 (last entry 16:30); closed on the third Tuesday of the month until November and every Tuesday from December.

A castle plus Kaichi School e-ticket is ¥1,600 (castle entry timed, valid 2 days). Castle plus City Museum is ¥1,500, castle plus Art Museum ¥1,700, and all four venues ¥2,600 (valid 3 days). Entry to the school on its own is priced by the city; check on the day.

With castle
¥1,600
Closed
3rd Tue, then Tue
Allow
45 min
06

Daiō Wasabi Farm大王わさび農場

30 min by JR Ōito Line to Hotaka (¥350), then about 10 min by taxi (about ¥2,000)

One of the biggest wasabi farms in Japan, laid out over spring-fed channels with water wheels on the Azumino plain. Entry is free and it has no closing days; hours shift with the season (about 08:30 to 17:30 in autumn, shorter from November), so check the farm’s site. Eat the wasabi soft serve, wasabi soba and tempura, and walk the paths between the fields. The 20-minute boat ride (¥1,400) runs to late October.

The Ōito Line is covered by the Hokuriku Arch Pass, so the train leg costs nothing extra on the pass. A tourist loop bus from Hotaka Station runs on selected days from late April to early November (about ¥600 a ride).

Entry
Free
From Matsumoto
30 min to Hotaka
Allow
2 to 3 hours
07

Asama and Utsukushigahara onsen浅間温泉・美ヶ原温泉

Asama: about 30 min by bus from the station · Utsukushigahara: east of the city

Asama Onsen (浅間温泉) is Matsumoto’s old spa quarter, with about 30 inns and a few day baths, a short bus ride north-east of the station. Utsukushigahara Onsen (美ヶ原温泉) is a quieter spa town in the hills, with a day bath at Shiraito-no-yu. Both are in the onsen guide below with the spring type and how each bath treats the water. For one night worth building a trip around, see Tobira Onsen Myōjinkan, a 1931 inn at 1,050 m above the city.

Asama
30 min by bus
Utsukushigahara
Day bath
Water
Simple alkaline
08

Kamikōchi, in brief上高地

Alpico train to Shin-Shimashima (about 30 min), then bus (about 65 min)

A mountain valley at about 1,500 m in the Northern Alps, closed to private cars, with Kappabashi bridge and Taishō Pond. The 2026 season runs 17 April to 15 November. It is a full day trip from Matsumoto: allow about two hours each way, reserve the bus ahead, and note the fare was revised on 17 April 2026 (roughly ¥3,000 one way; sources differ, so check Alpico). Neither the Hokuriku Arch Pass nor the Alpine pass covers this line.

Season to
15 Nov 2026
Allow
Full day
Bus
About 65 min
What to eat

Soba, horse sashimi and wasabi

01

Shinshū soba信州そば

Anywhere from the station counter to old shops in Nakamachi

Nagano is buckwheat country, and soba is the dish to eat here. Cold zaru soba on a bamboo tray with a dipping sauce is the standard order, often with a plate of tempura; ask for the hot cooking water (soba-yu) to drink at the end. Even the station has a soba counter, and in the hills bowls often carry venison and mushrooms, as in the photo.

This page lists dishes, not named restaurants: small soba shops change their opening days, so look the place up on Google Maps the same day.

Order
Zaru, with tempura
Finish
Soba-yu
Best at
Lunch
02

Basashi and sanzoku-yaki馬刺し・山賊焼

Izakaya and set-meal restaurants, mostly at dinner

Basashi (馬刺し) is raw horse meat sliced thin and eaten with soy sauce and ginger or garlic; Nagano is one of the main horse-meat prefectures in Japan. Sanzoku-yaki (山賊焼) is a marinated chicken thigh, deep-fried whole and cut up, a local dish of the Matsumoto and Shiojiri area. Both appear on izakaya menus in the evening.

Basashi
Raw, thin slices
Sanzoku-yaki
Fried chicken thigh
When
Dinner
03

Fresh wasabiわさび

Daiō Wasabi Farm and shops in town

The Azumino plain north-west of the city grows wasabi in cold spring water. Buy a whole root to grate at home, or eat it at the farm in soba, tempura and ice cream. A fresh root only keeps a few days even wrapped in damp paper in the fridge, so a tube of paste is the practical souvenir for a long trip.

Try
Wasabi soft serve
Buy
Root or paste
At
Daiō Wasabi Farm
Getting there

Times, fares and which pass covers them

FromHowTimeCost and pass
Nagano → MatsumotoShinano limited express on the Shinonoi LineAbout 50 minShinonoi Line covered by the Arch Pass; check the limited-express charge
Shinjuku → MatsumotoAzusa limited express (Chūō Line)About 2h 30mAbout ¥6,730 reserved; not on the Arch Pass
Tokyo → Matsumoto via NaganoKagayaki or Hakutaka, then the ShinanoFrom 1h 20m + about 50 minShinkansen on the Arch Pass
Nagoya → MatsumotoShinano limited expressAbout 2hOn the Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto pass
Itoigawa → MatsumotoJR Ōito Line, with changes3h 19m to 4h 30m¥2,050 · on the Arch Pass
Hakuba → MatsumotoJR Ōito Line localAbout 2 hours¥1,230 · on the Arch Pass
Takayama → MatsumotoNōhi and Alpico reserved bus, six a dayAbout 2h 20m¥4,400 · see Takayama
Toyama → MatsumotoAlpine Route to Shinano-Ōmachi, then Ōito Line6 to 8 hours + about 1 hour¥14,360 for the crossing, to 30 Nov 2026
Matsumoto → KamikōchiAlpico train to Shin-Shimashima, then busAbout 30 min + 65 minBus about ¥3,000 one way; reserve; to 15 Nov

Checked 14 Oct 2026. The Azusa fare is the reserved fare from the March 2026 fare tables. The Itoigawa and Hakuba times and fares follow our Itoigawa and Hakuba access pages; the Takayama bus follows the Takayama page. The Arch Pass has covered the whole Ōito Line (Itoigawa to Matsumoto) and the Shinonoi Line (Matsumoto to Nagano) since 14 March 2026; see the Arch Pass page. The pass lists rapid and local trains there, not the Shinano limited express.

How it fits a loop

Four ways to use Matsumoto

Matsumoto is a hinge. These are the loops that work, with what each one costs.

  1. 01
    Over the Alpine Route from Toyama. Dentetsu-Toyama to Shinano-Ōmachi is ¥14,360 and 6 to 8 hours with stops, then about an hour on the Ōito Line to Matsumoto. The route closes after 30 November 2026. Forward your suitcase (luggage forwarding ends 8 November) and sleep in Matsumoto. Alpine Route guide.
  2. 02
    The Nagoya loop. Nagoya, Takayama, Toyama, the Alpine Route, Matsumoto and back to Nagoya on the Shinano is about ¥29,000 in tickets against ¥24,500 for the Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto Area Pass, valid for travel to 10 November 2026. Pass details.
  3. 03
    An Arch Pass loop. Tokyo to Itoigawa by Kagayaki, the Ōito Line south through Hakuba to Matsumoto (3h 19m to 4h 30m, a long and scenic ride), the Shinonoi Line to Nagano, and the Shinkansen back. Every leg is on the Hokuriku Arch Pass since 14 March 2026. Ending in Matsumoto and wanting Tokyo? The Azusa is extra, so going back through Nagano is the pass-friendly route.
  4. 04
    From Takayama. The reserved Nōhi bus takes about 2h 20m (¥4,400) and is the way into Matsumoto from the Hida side. See Takayama and the Toyama to Takayama route. For skiing after the leaves, Shiga Kōgen is the other side of Nagano.
Pass and tickets

Which pass covers Matsumoto?

If you cross the Alpine Route
周

Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto Area Pass

¥24,500 · 5 days · to 10 Nov 2026

The Alpine Route, the Hida to Takayama and the Shinano to Matsumoto. It pays on the Nagoya loop, not for the crossing alone (¥14,360). Sales end 6 November.

Find on Klook ↗
虹

Hokuriku Arch Pass

¥35,000 · 7 days

Covers the Ōito Line and the Shinonoi Line into Matsumoto, plus the Shinkansen. Not the Azusa, the Alpine Route or the Kamikōchi bus. Worked fares.

See on Klook ↗
券

Compare every pass

7 passes, one table

Which pass fits Matsumoto, Takayama and the Alpine Route, and which does not.

Rail pass hub →
Where to stay

Castle, station, spring or mountain

Castle side

Matsumoto Marunouchi Hotel

松本丸の内ホテル · Ōte, by the castle

A few minutes on foot from the castle keep, so you can be at the gate when it opens at 08:30. Part of the Tobira group that runs Myōjinkan.

near the castle
Check rates ↗
Station side · onsen bath

Dormy Inn Matsumoto Natural Hot Spring

ドーミーイン松本 · Fukashi, 5 min from the Castle exit

A business hotel with a natural-spring bath, an outdoor bath and a sauna, and the chain’s free late-night ramen. The practical base for a rail trip.

business hotel
Check rates ↗
Station side

Hotel Buena Vista

ホテルブエナビスタ · Honjō, near the station

A large city hotel a few minutes from the station, useful before an early Kamikōchi or Alpine Route day.

city hotel
Check rates ↗
Asama Onsen · ryokan

Asama Onsen Izumiso

浅間温泉 泉荘 · Asama Onsen

A ryokan with 36 rooms in Matsumoto’s old spa quarter, about five minutes by car from the castle. For a night in the water rather than the city.

ryokan
Check rates ↗
Mountain inn · MICHELIN Key

Tobira Onsen Myōjinkan

扉温泉 明神館 · 1,050 m above Matsumoto

A single hot-spring inn open since 1931, One MICHELIN Key in 2026, with a chest-deep standing bath and a free shuttle from Matsumoto Station. The upgrade night. Our notes.

from about ¥66,000 pp with dinner
Check rates ↗
FAQ

Matsumoto, answered

How much is Matsumoto Castle, and do I need to book?

An adult ticket is ¥1,200 as a timed e-ticket (bookable up to 3 months ahead) or ¥1,300 on paper at the gate; children are ¥400. It is open 08:30 to 17:00, last entry 16:30, every day except 29 to 31 December. You do not have to book, but a timed slot skips the ticket line, and the queue for the keep itself can reach an hour or more in Golden Week and Obon.

How do I get from Nagano to Matsumoto?

By the Shinano limited express on the Shinonoi Line: about 50 minutes. The Hokuriku Arch Pass covers the Shinonoi Line between Nagano and Matsumoto since 14 March 2026, but its page lists only rapid and local trains, so ask at a JR ticket office whether the limited-express charge is extra before you board the Shinano.

How long does it take from Tokyo to Matsumoto?

The Azusa limited express runs from Shinjuku in about 2h 30m and costs about ¥6,730 reserved (March 2026 fares). The other route is a Kagayaki or Hakutaka to Nagano (from 1h 20m), then the Shinano to Matsumoto (about 50 minutes). The Hokuriku Arch Pass does not cover the Azusa.

Does the Hokuriku Arch Pass cover Matsumoto?

Yes, from two directions. Since 14 March 2026 it covers the whole JR Ōito Line from Itoigawa through Hakuba to Matsumoto, and the Shinonoi Line from Matsumoto to Nagano. It does not cover the Azusa to Shinjuku, the Alpine Route or the Nōhi bus from Takayama.

Can I cross the Alpine Route from Toyama to Matsumoto?

Yes, until 30 November 2026. Dentetsu-Toyama to Shinano-Ōmachi is ¥14,360 and takes 6 to 8 hours with stops. From Shinano-Ōmachi the Ōito Line reaches Matsumoto in about an hour. The Alpine-Takayama-Matsumoto Area Pass (¥24,500, 5 days, valid to 10 November 2026) pays if you also ride the Hida and Shinano limited expresses to and from Nagoya.

When does Kamikōchi close for winter, and how do I get there from Matsumoto?

The 2026 season runs to 15 November. Take the Alpico Kamikochi Line from Matsumoto to Shin-Shimashima (about 30 minutes), then the bus for about 65 minutes. Reserve the bus ahead; the fare is roughly ¥3,000 one way after the April 2026 revision, so check Alpico before you go.

Continue exploring

Matsumoto, then the Alps or the coast

← Back
Nagano
→

Booking links are affiliate links: we may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. How we choose