秋
Currently in season
AutumnOct–Nov
Now in Obuse · chestnut season
New chestnuts run September to mid October. Obuse-dō's Suzaku is on until 18 October 2026, by reservation.
春 夏 秋 冬
Checked 13 Oct 2026 6 min read
In brief

Obuse (小布施) is 25 min from Nagano by Nagaden limited express (¥870 plus a ¥100 limited express fee; the local takes 33–36 min). The Hokusai-kan (¥1,200, 9:00–17:00) is a 12 min walk from the station, and Gansho-in, 3 km out, has Hokusai's phoenix on its ceiling. Chestnut season runs September to mid October: Obuse-dō's Suzaku is on until 18 October 2026. Sake and wine are within 17 min on foot. The JR Pass and Arch Pass do not cover the Nagaden.

Why Hokusai travelled to a chestnut town

Hokusai first came to Obuse in his eighties at the invitation of a rich local, Takai Kōzan, and left festival-float ceilings and the temple phoenix behind. The rest of the town grew around chestnuts: sweets, sticky rice, sake and wine, all within a few streets. It is the easiest half day from Nagano, and it sits on the way to Yudanaka.

Book ahead

A bus day with Obuse in it

Short on time? One bus day links the snow monkeys, a miso maker and Obuse's chestnut town.

Our pick
栗

Snow Monkey Park, miso and Obuse

1 day · from Nagano or Tokyo

The Jigokudani monkeys, a miso maker and Obuse in one bus day. Check the listing for what it includes.

See on Klook ↗
What to see

Hokusai, chestnuts and a winery

01

Hokusai-kan北斎館

12 min walk from Obuse Station, 9:00–17:00

Opened in 1976, and 50 years old in 2026. The museum shows Katsushika Hokusai's work from the years he stayed in Obuse in his eighties as a guest of the local merchant Takai Kōzan, including his festival-float ceiling paintings. Admission is ¥1,200 (¥500 students, ¥300 school children) since April 2025. Exhibitions change in rotation: when parts are closed a reduced ticket applies, and on 13 Oct 2026 only the float rooms were open at ¥300, ahead of a 50th anniversary collection show from 14 to 22 October. Closed 31 December only.

Adult
¥1,200
Hours
9:00–17:00
Walk
12 min
02

Gansho-in and the phoenix ceiling岩松院

About 3 km from the centre: bike, town bus or taxi

A Sōtō Zen temple founded in 1472. Its main hall has Hokusai's Happō-nirami Hōō-zu (八方睨み鳳凰図), a phoenix on a ceiling of 21 tatami mats painted so that its gaze seems to follow you. The grounds also hold the pond linked to Kobayashi Issa's frog haiku and the mausoleum of the warlord Fukushima Masanori. Entry about ¥500, last entry 16:30 from April to October and earlier in winter.

Ceiling
21 mats
Founded
1472
Entry
about ¥500
03

Takai Kōzan Memorial Museum高井鴻山記念館

In the town centre, 9:00–16:30

The house of the scholar and merchant who invited Hokusai to Obuse. Its Yūzenrō (翛然楼) is the salon where Kōzan held gatherings with Hokusai and other scholars. About ¥300, and the quickest way to see why an Edo artist kept travelling to a chestnut town in his eighties.

Entry
about ¥300
Closes
16:30
Role
Hokusai's host
04

Chestnut sweets栗菓子

Obuse-dō, Chikufudō and the lanes paved with chestnut wood

Obuse is one of Japan's chestnut towns. Obuse-dō (小布施堂) makes Suzaku (栗の点心 朱雀) to order from fresh chestnuts, 10 September to 18 October 2026 at its main shop; book in season. Its Montblanc Suzaku set is ¥2,500 with a drink at the Entotsu shop, year round, dine-in only. Chikufudō (竹風堂) is known for kuri-okowa, chestnut sticky rice. Chestnut yōkan and kuri kanoko are sold from late September to mid December. The “chestnut lane” paths are paved with blocks of chestnut wood.

Suzaku 2026
10 Sep–18 Oct
Montblanc set
¥2,500
New chestnuts
Sep–Oct
05

Sake and wine桝一市村酒造場・小布施ワイナリー

Masuichi-Ichimura in the centre; Obuse Winery 15–17 min from the station

Masuichi-Ichimura (桝一市村酒造場) is the sake brewery run by the family behind Obuse-dō, with a tasting counter in the town centre. Obuse Winery (小布施ワイナリー) makes its Domaine Sogga wines from its own vineyards about 15–17 min on foot from the station, and brews a winter-only sake, Sogga Père et Fils, that is hard to find elsewhere.

Winery walk
15–17 min
Wine
Domaine Sogga
Sake
Masuichi-Ichimura
Getting there

Nagaden from Nagano, then on foot

LegTimeFare
Tokyo → Naganofrom 1h 20m (Kagayaki)¥8,450 reserved. JR Pass and Arch Pass
Nagano → Obuse, limited expressabout 25 min¥870 + ¥100 limited express fee
Nagano → Obuse, local33–36 min¥870
Obuse → Yudanakaabout 20 min by limited expresssee the Yudanaka page
Obuse Station → Hokusai-kan12 min on footFree
Bicycletourist information at the station, April to November, 9:00–17:00about ¥400 for the first 2 hours

The Nagaden station is underground at Nagano's Zenkō-ji exit. A return to Obuse with the limited express costs about ¥1,940, so the Nagaden 1-day ticket (¥2,820, machines at Nagano, sold to 30 November 2026) only pays off if you go on to Yudanaka (about ¥3,520 return). It is not covered by the JR Pass or Arch Pass.

Practical tips

Before you go

Small things that make the day easier.

  1. 01
    Start at Hokusai-kan at 9:00. It opens then, which leaves the afternoon for Gansho-in, the sweet shops and the winery.
  2. 02
    Reserve Suzaku. In season Obuse-dō asks for an advance reservation; the Entotsu Montblanc set is easier the rest of the year.
  3. 03
    Take a bike for Gansho-in. It is about 3 km out of the centre; the town bus runs in season and mostly on weekends and holidays.
  4. 04
    Check the museum rotation. Rooms close between exhibitions; look at the museum's own page before a special trip.
  5. 05
    Go on to Yudanaka for the night. The limited express stops at Obuse on the way, so the museum morning and a Shibu ryokan evening fit one trip.
FAQ

Obuse questions, answered

How do I get from Nagano to Obuse?

By the Nagano Electric Railway (Nagaden) from the underground station at Nagano's Zenkō-ji exit. The limited express takes about 25 min and the local 33–36 min; the fare is ¥870, plus ¥100 for the limited express. The JR Pass and Arch Pass do not cover it.

How much is the Hokusai Museum in Obuse?

¥1,200 for adults, ¥500 for high school and university students and ¥300 for elementary and junior high pupils, since 12 April 2025. It is open 9:00–17:00 (last entry 30 min before) and closes only on 31 December. Between exhibitions parts of it shut and a reduced ticket applies.

When is chestnut season in Obuse?

New chestnuts arrive in September and the main run is to mid October. Obuse-dō's Suzaku, chestnut paste strands over chestnut paste, runs 10 September to 18 October 2026, by reservation. Chestnut yōkan and kuri kanoko are sold from late September to mid December.

Is Obuse worth a half day?

Yes, if you like art, sweets or sake. It is compact: the museum, the sweet shops and the brewery are all within about 12 min of the station, and the town is flat. Add Gansho-in by bike or town bus for the phoenix ceiling.

Can I combine Obuse with the snow monkeys?

Yes. Obuse is a limited-express stop on the Nagaden, about 20 min before Yudanaka. See Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen. The Nagaden 1-day ticket (¥2,820, sold to 30 November 2026) pays off once you go beyond Obuse.

Where was Hokusai's phoenix painted?

On the ceiling of the main hall at Gansho-in (岩松院), a Sōtō Zen temple founded in 1472. The 21-mat painting, Happō-nirami Hōō-zu, is a phoenix whose eyes seem to follow you from every side. Hokusai painted it while staying in Obuse in his eighties.

Where to stay

Stay in Nagano or up the line at Shibu

Obuse has few beds that book online; most people stay in Nagano or go on to the hot-spring towns at the end of the Nagaden. Prices move by date.

Shibu

Shibu Onsen Kokuya

信州 渋温泉 古久屋 · centre of Shibu

A 400-year-old inn run by the 17th generation, with six of its own sources feeding its baths, on the main street with the nine public baths on the doorstep.

ryokan, 2 meals
Check rates ↗ Rakuten Travel ↗
Yudanaka

Yorozuya

湯田中温泉 よろづや · Yudanaka

About 200 years old, with the Momoyama-buro, a temple-style wooden bathhouse that is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.

ryokan, 2 meals
Check rates ↗ Rakuten Travel ↗
Shibu

Shunran no Yado Sakaeya

渋温泉 春蘭の宿 さかえや · 23 rooms

A mid-sized Shibu ryokan with bookable private baths, one with a Finnish-style sauna.

from about ¥17,600 pp
Check rates ↗ Rakuten Travel ↗
Zenkō-ji exit

Hotel Metropolitan Nagano

ホテルメトロポリタン長野 · at the station · 8.9 on Agoda

JR East's station hotel, directly above the Nagaden platforms: the easiest base for an Obuse morning.

station hotel
Check rates ↗
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