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Yamanaka · kawadoko to 30 Nov
The gorge colours in November. Kawadoko is open 10:00–15:00 in November, with irregular closing days.
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Checked 13 Oct 20265 min read
In brief

Yamanaka Onsen (山中温泉) is the gorge town of Kaga Onsen, 30–40 min by bus from Kaga-Onsen Station (about ¥470). The 1.3 km Kakusenkei path runs from Kōrogi Bridge to Kurotani Bridge past the S-shaped Ayatori-hashi; the riverside tea seat is open 1 April to 30 November from ¥700. The Kiku-no-yu public bath is ¥500, 7:00–22:00. Allow half a day, or stay a night.

Yamanaka has been a bath town for about 1,300 years, and the town is built along the Daishōji river rather than around a square. The old bath street runs about 600 m from the Kiku-no-yu bath to the head of the gorge path, so it is an easy town to walk once you are there.

What to see

Six stops along the river

01

Kakusenkei gorge and its three bridges鶴仙渓

Starts at Kōrogi Bridge, about 600 m up Yuge Kaidō from Kiku-no-yu

A 1.3 km path past odd-shaped rocks, with three bridges. Kōrogi Bridge (こおろぎ橋) is all cypress; the fourth bridge on the site was finished on 12 October 2019. Ayatori-hashi (あやとりはし), at the midpoint, is a 94.7 m pedestrian bridge in an S-shape, designed by Teshigahara Hiroshi of the Sōgetsu ikebana school as if arranging the gorge as a flower display, and lit every night. Kurotani Bridge (黒谷橋) is a stone arch of 1935 at the lower end, on the old road to Komatsu and Natadera.

Length
1.3 km
Entry
Free, open all year
Allow
About 1 hour with stops
02

Kakusenkei kawadoko鶴仙渓川床

At the foot of Ayatori-hashi, beside Fudō Falls

A riverside seat above the water, open 1 April to 30 November: 9:30–16:00 until 31 October, 10:00–15:00 in November (irregular closing days), closed December to March, and shut in rain or high water. A seat with Kaga bōcha roasted-stem tea is ¥700; with a sweet from a recipe by the Yamanaka-born chef Dōjō Rokusaburō it is ¥1,000.

Season
1 Apr – 30 Nov
Seat + tea
¥700
With sweets
¥1,000
03

Kiku-no-yu public bath山中温泉 菊の湯

Beside Yamanaka-za, at the top of Yuge Kaidō

The town sōyu stands on the site of the first bathhouse. Men and women bathe in separate buildings, which is rare in Japan: the men's has a deep, waist-high tub. Adults pay ¥500. Guests of ryokan in the Yamanaka association pay half; ask at the front desk. Beside the women's building, Yamanaka-za (8:30–22:00; to 20:00 in winter) has a tourist desk, coin lockers and, at weekends and on holidays, a geisha performance of Yamanaka-bushi.

Fee
¥500
Hours
7:00–22:00
Closed
2nd and 4th Tue
04

Yuge Kaidō and Hasebe Shrineゆげ街道・長谷部神社

From Kiku-no-yu to Kōrogi Bridge · about 600 m

The main street has no utility poles, and is lined with lacquer and Kutani galleries and cafés. Shops along it hold luggage and lend their toilets for free. On a slope above is Hasebe Shrine (長谷部神社), which honours the Kamakura-period warrior Hasebe Nobutsura, credited with reviving the spring after the town was ruined in war.

Length
About 600 m
Cost
Free
Allow
30 minutes
05

Yamanaka lacquer and Yamanaka Urushi-za山中漆器・山中うるし座

Yamanaka Urushi-za · in the town centre

Yamanaka lacquerware has been made here since the Tenshō era (1573–92) and is known for its wood-turned bowls (rokuro). Yamanaka Urushi-za shows the techniques and exhibits the work on the ground floor, free: 10:00–16:00 on weekdays, 9:30–16:30 at weekends and holidays, closed Wednesday. At Urushi no Utsuwa Asada you can paint a maki-e design on a plate or chopsticks (¥2,750) or a bowl (¥3,850) in about 50 minutes. The wood-turning workshop at Rokuro no Sato was suspended in October 2026.

Urushi-za
Free
Maki-e
¥2,750–3,850
Closed
Wed (Urushi-za)
06

Bashō-dō and Bashō no Yakata芭蕉堂・芭蕉の館

Bashō-dō on the gorge path · Bashō no Yakata near Kiku-no-yu

Matsuo Bashō stayed at the Izumiya inn in 1689, on the journey recorded in Oku no Hosomichi, and parted from his companion Sora here: the Ashi-yu foot bath beside the Bashō drinking fountain recalls his verse Kyō yori ya kakitsuke kesan kasa no tsuyu. Bashō-dō (芭蕉堂), a small hall built in October 1910, stands on the gorge path. Bashō no Yakata (芭蕉の館) is a 1905 villa of the Ōgiya inn, next to the Izumiya, with a garden and Bashō relics beside Yamanaka lacquer: ¥350 from 1 April 2026, 9:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30), closed Wednesday.

Bashō no Yakata
¥350
Hours
9:00–17:00
Closed
Wednesday
Getting there

From Kaga-Onsen Station

OptionTimeFareNotes
Hokutetsu route bus (Onsen Yamanaka line)30–40 minAbout ¥470 to Kiku-no-yu-maeThe tourist association lists ¥430 to the Yamanaka bus terminal; the stops are a few minutes apart
CAN BUS Mountain routeAbout 35 min¥500, or ¥1,300 one-day digital ticketAlso stops at Yamashiro and the Kutani kiln ruins; see the Kaga Onsen guide
TaxiAbout 20 minAbout ¥3,500Figure from the tourist association, not recent
Inn shuttleAbout 20 minFree at some innsReserve with the inn; Shirasagiyu Tawaraya runs one from Kaga-Onsen Station

From Kanazawa: Shinkansen to Kaga-Onsen, 14–19 min, ¥3,170 reserved; from Tokyo, 2h 43m, ¥15,150. Bus fares from Yahoo Transit and the Yamanaka tourist association; taxi fare is the association's figure and not recent. Checked 13 Oct 2026.

The water and the seasons

Baths, and when to come

The same spring feeds the town baths and most of the inns.

  1. 01
    The spring. The inns share a pooled spring of about 50°C (49.8°C, pH 8.6), classed as a calcium sodium sulfate type; the Kiku-no-yu notice lists it as a simple spring. The wells feed a shared pipe to the inns and to Kiku-no-yu.
  2. 02
    How the inns run it. Nearly all the inns top up, heat and recirculate the shared water. Free-flowing baths are mostly in private room baths: at Kayōtei, every room has its own free-flowing bath at 40–41°C. Ask the inn which of its baths are which.
  3. 03
    Spring to autumn. The kawadoko opens on 1 April and runs to 30 November; the bridges are lit every night; the gorge colours in November.
  4. 04
    Winter. Kawadoko is closed from December to March and the path can be icy, but the baths are at their best and ryokan serve crab from 6 November (snow crab season).
Where to stay

Three Yamanaka inns

Yamanaka · gorge

Shirasagiyu Tawaraya

白鷺湯たわらや · on the river at Kakusenkei

One of the twelve old inns of Yamanaka, with open-air baths over the gorge. A free shuttle runs from Kaga-Onsen Station if you reserve it.

from ¥15,400 pp
Check rates ↗
Yamanaka · high bath

Hanamurasaki

山中温泉 花紫 · above the gorge

Known for a high open-air bath over the gorge and à la carte kaiseki. Guests can watch Yamanaka-bushi song and dance in the evening.

ryokan, 2 meals
Check rates ↗
Yamanaka · centre

Yamanaka Onsen Kajikasō

山中温泉 河鹿荘 · on the Daishōji river

A central hotel reopened after a full renovation in August 2025, on the town side of the river.

Rates on Agoda
Check rates ↗

Prices are per person with dinner and breakfast, two sharing, from Japanese booking sites in October 2026, and move by date.

FAQ

Yamanaka Onsen, answered

How do I get to Yamanaka Onsen from Kanazawa?

Take the Shinkansen to Kaga-Onsen Station (14–19 min, ¥3,170 reserved), then the Hokutetsu route bus (30–40 min, about ¥470) or CAN BUS (¥500). Allow about 1h 30m from Kanazawa Station. A taxi from Kaga-Onsen takes about 20 minutes, and several inns run a free shuttle if you reserve it.

How long does the Kakusenkei gorge walk take?

The path is 1.3 km from Kōrogi Bridge to Kurotani Bridge, so about 30 minutes one way at an easy pace. Add time for the Ayatori-hashi bridge and a stop at the riverside tea seat. It is free and open all year, though snow and ice can make the path slippery in winter.

When is the Kakusenkei kawadoko open and what does it cost?

The riverside kawadoko is open 1 April to 30 November: 9:30–16:00 until 31 October, then 10:00–15:00 in November with irregular closing days. A seat with Kaga bōcha tea is ¥700, or ¥1,000 with sweets from a recipe by chef Dōjō Rokusaburō. It closes in rain and when the river is high.

How much is the Kiku-no-yu public bath?

¥500 for an adult (¥150 for ages 6 to 11, ¥70 for ages 3 to 5), open 7:00–22:00 and closed on the 2nd and 4th Tuesday of each month. Men and women bathe in separate buildings. Guests of inns in the Yamanaka ryokan association pay half price: ask at your inn's front desk.

What is the link between Bashō and Yamanaka?

Matsuo Bashō stayed in Yamanaka in 1689 on his Narrow Road to the Deep North and wrote of the bath, Yamanaka ya kiku wa taoraji yu no nioi: no need to pick chrysanthemums, the scent of the water is enough. His travelling companion Sora left him here. The Bashō-dō shrine stands on the gorge path and Bashō no Yakata, a museum, costs ¥350.

Is Yamanaka worth a night rather than a day trip?

Yes if you want the evening: the gorge is quiet once day visitors leave, the bridge is lit nightly, and the ryokan include dinner and breakfast. As a day trip it works if you leave Kanazawa by 9:00; the bus takes 30 to 40 minutes each way.

Continue exploring

More of Kaga Onsen

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