Itoigawa Black Yakisoba糸魚川ブラック焼きそば
Jet-black noodles dyed with squid ink, crowned with an omelette, finished in a ketchup-mayo lattice. Invented at Getsutoku Hanten (月徳飯店) in Omachi, go at 11:00 or after 13:30 to dodge the lunch queue.
Genbei serves an izakaya version with sake pairings; Ryūki is a ramen shop that also slings a respectable plate.